Chess. Yoga. Shampoo. Chai. Henna. Traditional attire like the lehenga or dupatta. All of these originated in India and have made their way to the Western world. Today, these entities are used on a large scale in the United States. But while these cultural elements have traveled far, their roots haven’t necessarily stayed visible or respected.

Following Coachella, accessory choices in Western bridal fashion and new collections by popular fast fashion brands, has sparked controversy and conversation around cultural appropriation. The hashtag “my culture is not your costume” has emerged and is trending on social media platforms like TikTok and Instagram. Clothing choices that are clearly inspired by traditional Indian styles have been labeled as “Scandinavian” or “Ibiza” style clothing. But in reality, there is an undeniable resemblance to traditional Indian clothing, which has been documented as being worn by Indian people as far back as 2600-1900 BCE, long before the Oh Polly clothing brand, which is just now celebrating just ten years.

The truth is, there’s no stopping culture and traditional styles from entering the Western world and becoming popularized. Many recent festival attire choices, featuring sequined, small mirrors embedded in clothing, or complex embroidery patterns, are too close to traditional attire to be considered mere coincidence. Credit must be given where credit is due. In my opinion, it is okay to embrace another culture and to purchase and style clothing inspired by a different region. But the line is crossed when there’s denial about where the inspiration came from. In recent Western bridal fashion, wearing a “backwards scarf” around the neck is undoubtedly inspired by the traditional dupatta, an accessory worn by Indian people since the 1300s. Additionally many patterns that have recently become trendy have been used on clothing worn by Indian women for thousands of years.

There’s an important distinction between cultural appropriation and appreciation. If you’re aware that a brand has taken inspiration from traditional Indian clothing, and someone asks about your outfit, you can share the story. It’s important for those who are informed to spread their knowledge, since appropriation often happens when people lack understanding of a specific aspect of another culture.

In the end, yes, recent festival attire and collections by fast fashion brands have shown a great resemblance to clothing that Indian people have been wearing for, what, 4,600 years? Fashion is a form of art and a personal experience for individuals, but it’s important to acknowledge and respect the origins of a trend, especially when its roots are overlooked or obscured.

Fashion trends come and go, but as new styles arise, it’s crucial to actively choose appreciation and respect for an outfit’s origin, or simply choose not to purchase the piece at all. This is my opinion, and other people of Indian background may have different views on this topic especially after multiple brands have refused to credit their obvious inspiration. But, individuals with varied backgrounds are also being impacted. It’s important to do your research and stay open to learning when injustice and appropriation may occur. You’re in a position of privilege, knowing the history and meaning of traditional clothing that others see as “just a trend.”